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I want to install a 1000 watt rms system in my Civic. What do I need to do?

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Question by John: I want to install a 1000 watt rms system in my Civic. What do I need to do?
I have a 1994 Honda Civic and I want to install a 1000 watt rms amp to power my subs, but I’m sure that would be ridiculous stress on the electrical system. I was wondering what I would need to do in order to accomodate my system. I’ve heard a lot of mixed answers and I want to do everything myself, so I need the simplist advice possible. I also need to take the cheapest route possible. Any good advice will be greatly appreciated.

Best answer:

Answer by John H
i had 1600 watts dual 15s in my escort šŸ™‚ and all it did was make the lights flicker at stop lights when the rpms were low.

Just buy an amp and hook it up, it isnt that hard and it will come with instuctions. If you dont have an aftermarket stereo with rca out puts, dont bother with subwoofers yet.

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Posted November 5th, 2012 in Cheapest 1000 Watt. Tagged: , , , , , , .

3 comments:

  1. subar62:

    My husband put a big amp and 2 12″ subs in our 83′ colt, he knew what he was doing, but he still says the best way to go is to get a detailed estimate from an Audio Center for installation and then get prices from your Radio Shack or Electronics Store. Then go by the instructions for your amp, it will let you know how much power you’ll need. You might want to invest in a good alarm system too though, because if someone here’s you goin’ through town with the humps goin’ you’re probablly going to be being watched.

  2. MLJ:

    Hey, i have a 95 civic ex coupe:). I currently am running around 1200-1400 watts rms in my system. If you are looking for just the basics this it what you will need. Go to ebay and look at irragi’s High output alternators. The highest amperage alts are 160amps. That will run you about $ 300. (Alternators
    make power, caps dont!)

    Then you will need wiring. I will recommend knukonceptz klm 0guage at $ 1.75 per foot. You will only need 25-28ft at most.
    When you upgrade your wiring you will need to upgrade the”big 3″ which is alt to battery battery ground to chassis and engine block to chassis. I can send you pics of mine if you need reference. (Also, don’t forget about the terminals. Ebay might have some cheap one if you look close.)

    If your battery is really old you may want to upgrade it but that’s not necessary.
    That should be it and remember that this setup will keep you running good while you drive but when your car is off the battery wont last too long before you start to drain it.

    You might also want to buy a volt meter for your car just to keep and eye on your voltage while you drive. The Civics cut the alternator off from 14.5v until it warms up and then drops the voltage down to 12.7v. The car then only ups the voltage to 14.5v if i go over 40mph or if i use an accessories.This was designed to better fuel economy i guess. The volt meters are pretty cheap on eBay as well.

    Sorry for the long post but we have the same car and if I can help you just let me know.

    **”The purpose of the isolator is to keep your cap from servicing the rest of your cars power needs. It will be dedicated to your subs and subs only.”

    DUDE, WTF. IF HE WIRES A CAPACITOR INTO HIS ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ITS GOING TO BE USED BY ANYTHING THAT CALLS UPON IT. YOU CAN’T ISOLATE A CAP UNLESS YOU RUN AN ENTIRELY DIFFERENT ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FOR YOUR STEREO. IT CAN BE DONE BUT THAT’S NOT THE PURPOSE OF A GROUND LOOP ISO.

    PLEASE READ HERE FOR CAPS AND GROUND LOOP ISO.ALSO READ ABOUT HOW A CHARGING SYSTEM WORKS. http://www.bcae1.com/.

  3. crunch1:

    You want it simple you got it.

    A. if only using one amp in the system.
    1. buy a tsunami 4 gauge single amp kit.
    2. buy a 1.2f capacitor.
    3. install all the above.

    A little more detailed.
    B. if only using one amp in the system.
    1. buy a tsunami 4 gauge single amp kit.
    2. buy a 1.2f capacitor.
    3. buy a better battery for you car at least (1000ca).
    4. buy a ground loop isolator (to isolate the cap).
    5. upgrade the big 3.

    I can go on and on getting more detailed but I will stop here.

    The purpose of the cap is to keep your lights from dimming. At 1.2f its not going to be a major factor that you can notice in the sound of your system. I wont get into the whole battery v/s cap joules argument.

    The purpose of the isolator is to keep your cap from servicing the rest of your cars power needs. It will be dedicated to your subs and subs only.


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