This home brew amp put out 3KW the first time it was fired up. After tuning and a few mods it eventually did 5KW on the 11 meter CB band. It was created for mobile use! The rig? A 1963 Ford pickup with a small block chevy under the hood, a Dodge rear axle and a datsun 4Cyl engine in the bed to run the 12KW Genset that powered the AMP. The only thing in the cab was a basic Cobra 40 Channel CB. There was a remote start for the 4Cyl genny and the amp could be online within a minute or so. The driver amp was a solid state 500 Watt brick if I recall correctly. The output tube was an Eimac 3CX5000. Video was shot May 19th 1989.
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Frame MiniTec MTB front Subframe MiniTec flip front fiberglass hood Suspension & Wheels 13×6 MSW Minilight Wheels with 175 50 13 tires Wood and Picket wheel arches from England GAZ 40 way adjustable shocks front and rear MiniTec front Springs, height adjustable HiLo type Rear springs, height adjustable MiniTec front heim joint control arms — fully adjustable camber, caster and toe S Racer rear fully adjustable camber/caster setup Engine Honda Civic SiR B16A Buddy Club Spec III VTEC cams Buddy Club dual valve springs AEM adjustable cam gears Rebuilt head with all new valve guides and seals with 3 angle valve job. BLOX short run intake manifold (also needed to clear the firewall) Custom Intake arm with filter OBX stainless steel exhaust header MSD high silicon ignition wires Hondata 3000 VTEC computer chip. Transmission S80, 1999 5 Speed Acura GSR Transmission with smooth engagement in all gears (no grinding) Quaife Limited Slip Differential Upgraded 4.05 final Drive — rolls at 70mph at 3500 RPM — Very STREETABLE and hits VTEC at around 5500 RPM. Interior Skunk2 short shift kit B&M shift cover and base Momo Indy wood steering wheel from Japan (VERY RARE) Quick release steering wheel adaptor Acura Integra TypeR (ITR) front seats in GREAT condition (VERY RARE) Stewart Warner Speedo, Tach (10k limit), Water Temp, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure and Fuel Level Re upholstered rear seats, door panels, deck lid, dash and a NEW headliner SRacer peddles (gas, clutch, brake) Honda ignition …
[BannerCampaign id=1] Question by JJ: What cables do i need for a car amplifier?
i have a 500 watt sub with a 750 watt amp and have no idea what wires to get, the cheaper the better, would it be smarter to get them online or in store
what amount of watts should i get on the wires
Best answer:
Answer by Darnell Peters online from ebay if you have any questions you can message the seller on ebay and they can help and assist you
[BannerCampaign id=1] Question by Chevy Boy: any suggestions for a car amplifier?
i was going to put 2 kicker L7’s in my truck, they’re the older version, i assume 2005-06 models powered by an alpine 1000 watt amp on sale secondhand for $ 400. but i found 2 brand new 2008 models for $ 400 online at cartronixplus.com, i’d rather get those but i have no idea what amp i could use to push them. i know i could use the kicker ZX2500.1 but that’s well beyond my price range. can anyone suggest an amp that would work out?
Best answer:
Answer by Tom F I assume you are refering to Solo-Baric 12″ L7s with 750w RMS power handling capacity.
For these subs I would get a strong 2 channel amplifer (assuming there are 2 inputs, 1 for each sub). Alternatively you can get 2 mono’s to power each separately but this would require 2 RCAs rather than 1. However, to make use of the full potential of the subs you would want to give at least 500w RMS each and a 2 channel with at least 500w RMS x 2 is very hard to come across – so maybe 2 mono’s will be easier to source.
I would go with JBL, Pioneer or Alpine – all quality brands (although the last is considerably more expensive). Remember that you should get a good amp for those subs – buying an underpowered one will waste the potential of the kickers.
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